Steel tales: Crafting the Unseen No.9- The seventh story behind "Wrought"
Two cuff bracelets and one bangle are the primary outcomes for the exhibition Site Specific. My "Wrought" series reflects my interpretation of the exhibition’s theme and title, Site Specific, at egetal as part of radiantpavillion.
Inspired by the wrought iron around the house, I didn't create new lines to imitate its geometry. Instead, I explored the geometric shapes already present within the simple forms of cuffs and bangles. Like uncovering hidden gems and secrets, it was a mindful and meditative process to find the existing graphic geometry within the perforations. To highlight this geometry, I used a silver inlay technique to fill the perforations. In some pieces, the silver-inlaid dots are exposed, while in others, they remain hidden.
First black cuff, “Wrought no. 1” before and after being powder coated in Ace black.
Second cuff, “Wrought no.2” before and after being powder coated in white.
Black and white bangles, “Wrought no.3”- before and after being powder coated in black and white.
As I mentioned earlier, in some pieces, the silver-inlaid dots are left exposed, while in others, they remain hidden beneath the surface. The powder coating process significantly alters the final appearance, interacting with and transforming the aesthetic qualities of my designs.
Powder coating involves applying a fine, dry powder to a surface and then curing it under heat to create a durable, protective finish. Unlike liquid paint, which requires solvents, powder coating uses electrostatic charges to adhere the powder to the surface before it’s heated. The process begins with surface preparation, and for my work, I use sandblasting to ensure the metal is clean and ready for coating.
Next, the powdered material, typically a polymer like polyester or epoxy, is sprayed onto the surface, and an electrostatic gun helps the powder cling to the grounded object. The final step is curing: the coated object is placed in an oven where the powder melts, flows, and forms a smooth, even layer. As it cools, it hardens into a tough, resilient finish.
Known for its environmental benefits—no solvents or volatile organic compounds—powder coating also offers a wide range of colors and textures. Although I haven’t yet explored textured finishes in my work, it’s an area I’m considering developing further.
The success of the powder coating process relies entirely on the trust I’ve built with my powder coater over the past 10 years. Initially, I had planned to file back the silver inlays to reveal their shine, but after seeing how seamlessly the cuff bracelets were powder coated, I decided to leave them as they are. While it feels like I wasted the expensive silver wire used for the inlays, I’m content with it for these one-off pieces. For future reference, I could use brass wire as a more cost-effective alternative.
Multiple perforation patterns in “Wrought no.4” - Black powder coated mild steel and silver inlay
Although "industrial jewellery" is not always classified as a distinct, formal category in contemporary jewellery, it is a recognized and emerging style within the field. Many contemporary jewellers and designers use this concept to describe work that incorporates industrial materials, techniques, and aesthetics. While it may not have the same formal status as categories like "fine jewellery" or "art jewellery," it is certainly an approach and trend that is part of the broader landscape of contemporary jewellery.
In my work, several elements align with the "industrial jewellery" approach:
Material Exploration: I have been expanding the possibilities by using materials such as steel, mild steel, and brass, as well as other unconventional elements typically found in industrial applications, like watch parts and components.
Techniques: Industrial processes such as powder coating, welding, casting with non-precious metals, and laser cutting are integral to my work. These techniques allow for precision, durability, and innovative designs.
Design Philosophy: By using industrial materials and processes, my work challenges traditional ideas of what is considered precious or beautiful in jewellery. This approach often intersects with themes like sustainability, upcycling, and minimalism.
